All credit to the charming and cosy Crask Inn! I have drunk, dined, washed, slept, breakfasted and been handed a generous packed lunch all for less than half what you would pay at the hotel up the road in Altnaharra.
The official route heads about 15 miles north west from here, mostly on roads before reaching Oykel Bridge via a couple of evil climbs. I didn't fancy such a detour and with the help of the landlord devised an alternative.
Leaving the dreaded bogs behind at last, I took fast, meandering forestry tracks down to Lairg, on the way visiting a rather ruinous broch.
These are ancient dwellings built thousands of years ago with a circular double wall, staggered doorways and probably wood and turf roofs. They would surely have been dark, damp and smokey, much like today's bothies.
At Lairg I had a cake stop at the charming Pier cafe then stocked up on food for the remote days ahead.
To avoid the A road, I followed the pretty river Shin south for a while before rising up onto more forest tracks. Coming across a brand new bit of single track, I could not resist and descended steeply to find myself at Shin Falls, where I watched salmon trying in vain to jump the cascades.
In order to head west I had to cross the Kyle of Sutherland. The first road bridge is six miles south at Bonar, but fortunately there is a new pedestrian walkway bolted onto the viaduct at Culrain, saving a long detour and giving good views of Carbisdale Castle.
A stiff climb behind the castle and I was back in the forest trails, dropping onto a tiny and deserted B road running high above the Oykel river.
Crossing the "funny wee bridge" back to at A road, I made the discovery of the trip, a tiny and precipitous fishermans' path worn into the river bank. It gradually widended passing though some of the most picturesque river scenes. Chatting to the fish-botherers and even stopping for a paddle, I didn't want this section to end.
Reaching Oykel Bridge, I grabbed a pint at the hotel. It is really more of a outdoorsmans' pub with cheap simple rooms available, and it's pretty much the only thing in Oykel Bridge.
It was quite a climb out on forest roads initially then a rough track, finally descending with care into Strath Cuileannoch. This is a gorgeous and remote valley with perfect natural camping spots inside the river bends.
Although I had more in the tank, one spot was just too good to pass up. Fate must have agreed, because the moment I stepped off the track towards where I planned to camp, I found a perfect red deer antler laying on the ground. A fitting souvenir from the first leg of my trip.
Miles today: 49. Total so far: 160.
Feet climbed today: 2720. Total so far: 8450.
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