I passed a several milestones today - at 568 miles I am past the half way point, it's officially summer and I also crossed the border into England.
From my camp on the bank of the Tweed yesterday, it was not long before I started the now customary 1000' morning climb, only this one turned out to be nearly 2000'.
The hills and forests to the south east of Innerleithen are a maze of purpose-built mountain bike trails, but it is neither fun nor polite to attempt these uphill. thankfully they have also built an ascent track, an easy trail which follows a constant gradient and joins the forest tracks higher up on the forest.
These excellent tracks wiggle and contour around, eventually leading to what I thought was a valley route on the southern uplands way on the far side.
But not for the first or last time, I failed to read the map carefully enough, and it's actually a ridge route, cue more climbing!
it's worth it though, as a narrow mud track weaves through the gorgeous scenery, descending gradually into the Ettrick valley.
A wrong turn leads me to a cafe and watermill, so perhaps not that wrong. Back on track and it's time for another 1000' climb past some TV masts and down to the village of Ashkirk in the next valley, where the pub is tragically shut on Mondays.
Fortunately the golf club at Woll accepts sweaty, scruffy cyclists into their restaurant and makes me a fine lunch.
Another big up-and-down via a path rather chewed up by horses leads me to the town of Hawick (pronounced Hoik) where I can stock up on supplies.
The next section looks easy on paper, following part of the disused Carlisle to Edinburgh railway. The first problem is actually getting onto it, which I manage by scrambling down a steep bank near Stobbs Castle. Once established on the grassy railway a track finally appears and slowly improves.
The going is strangly slow though, not helped by getting my first puncture. A headwind has also sprung up. Or maybe I'm just exhausted. It's neither, I finally realise the railway is following a slight but continuous incline. I drag up this almost imperceptible slope for about four miles, when the railway dives into a tunnel, and I must go 'over the top' climbing up to about 1500'.
On the other side there is a short section of track on which are stranded a variety of carriages and engines of different eras and states of disrepair - a railway heritage centre apparently. I shoot along the now excellent surface of the railway bed, enjoying the slight downhill, to reach the lost village of Riccarton Junction.
Once home to 120 people, there are now just four buildings, two of which are in ruins. The village, which has no road, existed only to serve the remote station. After closure of first one line then the other in 60s it was cleared leaving barely a trace.
Having reached the road at Liddersdale, the official route climbs a towering ridge to reach the border at the back of Kielder forest. I like the idea of crossing the border but not the climb, so instead I take minor roads that loop around the head of the valley and into Northumberland.
Back in England again, wild camping is not allowed so I make for the official campsite in Kielder village, but it's shut so I go to the pub instead.
Refreshed, I start along the lake side past the no camping signs. I does not look promising, and it's starting to get dark. Finally I find a discrete but rather bumpy spot - and then the dreaded midges find me!
Miles today: 58. Total: 568.
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