Day 16 Innerleithen to Kielder

I passed a several milestones today - at 568 miles I am past the half way point, it's officially summer and I also crossed the border into England.

From my camp on the bank of the Tweed yesterday, it was not long before I started the now customary 1000' morning climb, only this one turned out to be nearly 2000'.

The hills and forests to the south east of Innerleithen are a maze of purpose-built mountain bike trails, but it is neither fun nor polite to attempt these uphill. thankfully they have also built an ascent track, an easy trail which follows a constant gradient and joins the forest tracks higher up on the forest.

These excellent tracks wiggle and contour  around, eventually leading to what I thought was a valley route on the southern uplands way on the far side.

But not for the first or last time, I failed to read the map carefully enough, and it's actually a ridge route, cue more climbing!

it's worth it though, as a narrow mud track weaves through the gorgeous scenery, descending gradually into the Ettrick valley.

A wrong turn leads me to a cafe and watermill, so perhaps not that wrong. Back on track and it's time for another 1000' climb past some TV masts and down to the village of Ashkirk in the next valley, where the pub is tragically shut on Mondays.

Fortunately the golf club at Woll accepts sweaty, scruffy cyclists into their restaurant and makes me a fine lunch.

Another big up-and-down via a path rather chewed up by horses leads me to the town of Hawick (pronounced Hoik) where I can stock up on supplies.

The next section looks easy on paper, following part of the disused Carlisle to Edinburgh railway. The first problem is actually getting onto it, which I manage by scrambling down a steep bank near Stobbs Castle. Once established  on the  grassy  railway a track finally appears and slowly improves.

The going is strangly slow though, not helped by getting my first puncture. A headwind has also sprung up. Or maybe I'm just exhausted. It's neither, I finally realise the railway is following a slight but continuous incline. I drag up this almost imperceptible slope for about four miles, when the railway dives into a tunnel, and I must go 'over the top' climbing up to about 1500'.

On the other side there is a short section of track on which are stranded a variety of carriages and engines of different eras and states of disrepair - a railway heritage centre apparently. I shoot along the now excellent surface of the railway bed, enjoying the slight downhill, to reach the lost village of Riccarton Junction.

Once home to 120 people, there are now just four buildings, two of which are in ruins. The village, which has no road, existed only to serve the remote station. After closure of first one line then the other in 60s it was cleared leaving barely a trace.

Having reached the road at Liddersdale, the official route climbs a towering ridge to reach the border at the back of Kielder forest. I like the idea of crossing the border but not the climb, so instead I take minor roads that loop around the head of the valley and into Northumberland.

Back in England again, wild camping is not allowed so I make for the official campsite in  Kielder village, but it's shut so I go to the pub instead.

Refreshed, I start along the lake side past the no camping signs. I does not look promising, and it's starting to get dark. Finally I find a discrete but rather bumpy spot - and then the dreaded midges find me!

Miles today: 58. Total: 568.

Day 15 Edinburgh to Innerleithen

What a difference a few days makes - gone are the cold northerly winds and incessant rain, replaced with mild temperatures and plenty of sunshine.

I haven't covered a huge distance today, even less as the crow flies, but I have worked hard as it's been super hilly and also very pretty.

Early morning in the Pentlands

Also, I passed the 500 mile mark! All together now; I would ride 500 miles and I would ride 500 more...

From the suburbs of Edinburgh I found a cunning route south around Dreghorn Barracks and up into the Pentland Hills. Up was the word as I did a steep and continuous climb to the flank of Castlelaw Hill at about 1400' before descending to the Glencourse reservoir.

MOD shooting ranges above the reservoir.

Here I picked up a valley route along the picturesque reservoirs. I would not want to be a fish in one of these.

A climb over a pass at Borestane leads via some boggy bits to North Esk reservoir and down to Carlops. 

North Esk reservoir was built to supply water to the paper mills below.

After the very cute village of West Linton, I have another big climb over the wild and remote Cloich Hills via the old drovers road. This is the route once used to walk cattle and sheep all the way from Falkirk to Smithsfield market in London for sale.

A final effort sees Peebles appear way down below.

A quick refuel at Peebles, and it is an easy disused railway track along the Tweed via the rather toy-town village of Cardrona to Innerleithen.

On the edge of Innerleithen I find this lovely spot and decide that's enough. A paddle and wash in the river is very refreshing. 

If you are wondering, the tent will go up later as I am rather close to civilization tonight.

Miles today: 39. Total so far: 510

Days 11-14 Taking a break!

The long day to Edinburgh almost finished off my legs! Also as organised as I try to be, life elsewhere goes on so I have decided to take a break from the cycling for a few days.

This should allow me to carry on with fresh legs, as well as giving my ankles some time to heal - and for the weather to improve!

I will be back on the trails on Sunday, where the scenic Pentland Hills await, followed by the beautiful Tweed valley.

Meanwhile another BIG THANK YOU to my fantastic sponsors. We are nearly at £2500 now, with contributions still coming in.

Bye for now, back very soon!

Day 10 Drymen to Edinburgh

I knew I had a long day ahead so I made an early start, for once on the sunshine.

From Drymen there was a bit of hilly road to cover before picking up the WHW again,  which follows another disused railway line, and apart from being very puddley and muddy is easy going.

At Dunyreath Castle (just a hill now) it leaves the old railway route for a steep and rocky climb over the edge of the Campsie Fells. I did try to stay on the old railway but it was too boggy and overgrown, so over the top it was!

After the village of Strathblane the path becomes national cycle route 755 which means good fast surfaces past Lennox town and Milton of Campsie to meet the Forth & Clyde Canal at Kirkintilloch.

 

It's canal towpath all the way to Edinburgh - no hills!!! The canal roughly follows the Antonine Wall, built by the Romans to mark the boundary of the Empire and keep the wildlings out. There's little left of the wall and its fortresses now though as they were mainly earth and timber.

It's a pretty, wide and well maintained canal, with lots of wildlife, but it does not seem to be getting a lot us use. The only moving boats I see all day are a couple of maintenance barges and this very tidy double.

Soon after a 'full Scottish' at the rather unlovely Bonniebridge, I reached this rather famous landmark. 

The Falkirk Wheel is an ingenious and showy solution to connect the Forth & Clyde and Union canals together without a long staircase of locks. But it has become a landmark and tourists destination on itself, you can even take a tour boat up the lift, through the tunnel and back - though it's a lot quicker to walk!

Unfortunately I still have nearly 30 miles to go, which is a lot even on the flat. Regular rain showers don't help either. Lovely as it is, by the time I approach Edinburgh I have had enough of canal and an feeling deeply tired, these legs need some time off.

The bike too lets me down for the first time when the forks lose pressure and slowly sink onto the bump stops. For now I am able to lock them out, but it will need sorting before tackling any rough surfaces again.

Miles today: 67. Total so far: 471.

Feet climbed today: 3330. Total so far: 36840.

Day 9 Killin to Drymen

Arrgh I just spent half an hour writing today's blog, then my phone crashed and I lost everything.

I can't be bothered to write it all again, so here are just the pictures. All you need to know is:

1. I followed national cycle route 7, and

2. It rained. All day.

 

Miles today: 44.Total so far: 404.

Feet climbed today: 3940. Total so far: 33510.

Day 8 Kings House to Killin

Having already book a place to stay in Killin, I was keen to get there before the torrential rain forecast around 2pm. This early start was made easy by another freezing cold night, even with the new sleeping bag liner. I suppose camping about 1200' might have something to do with it.

I was on the roll by 6.30, before any other tent showed signs of life, I guess they HAD been to the pub! I realised that the normally busy A82 was silent, it being a Sunday morning. So not trusting the West Highland Way to be rideable from the ski centre, I whizzed down to Bridge of Orchy over the desolation of Rannoch Moor.

From the odd little village of Bridge of Orchy, the WHW followed good tracks parallel to the railway all the way to Tyndrum, except for a short section where the new road had deleted the old and the track became a rocky horror show.

Tyndrum is a major crossroads and there are plenty of places to eat, so it was time for a full Scottish at the Green Welly.

Continuing on the WHW, and foolishly trusting it, I enjoyed a lovely Riverside trail followed by a nice route through a community forest. It even detoured to take in the ruins of this once grand monestry.

Then it bit back - zooming off on a steep and rocky forest trail that climbed relentlessly until I finally abandoned it, without regret, to negotiate a steep and nasty descent into Crianlarich. 

From Crianlarich the map shows a disused railway with vague trails, but on the ground there is nothing useable so I am forced back on the main road for a while. At Innishewan B&B a farm track provides relief from the traffic and leads to a delightful and utterly empty minor road all the way to Killin.

Arriving at 2.30 tired, wet and with a sore ankle, there is happily time to relax in the local hostelry and enjoy a few afternoon beers followed by a lie-in.

The foul weather is due to pass over tonight, leaving the promise of some fine, warm high-pressure conditions to follow FINALLY.

Tomorrow I am back on the Great North Trail route, and it looks like a lovely day full of disused railway trails, lochs and forests leading eventually to the Union Canal, which should provide an easy run to Edinburgh the following day.

Miles today: 40. Total so far: 360.

Feet climbed today: 3200. Total so far: 29570.

Day 7 Fort Augustus to King House (part 2)

Guess what - it's a steep climb out of town (how many times am I going to write that?). The path doubles as the service road for the hydro scheme so is good and smooth but does climb relentlessly.

At the hydro top station the West Highland Way branches off the service road and goes single track, very rocky and continues to climb. There are not many camping spots and it would be cold up here, so I press on.

It wanders and climbs, wanders and climbs and ultimately reaches a pass over 1800' high with great views into Glen Coe.

Given the terrible state of the path so far I was not expecting a great descent, and I was right. The 'Devils Staircase' was steep, loose and technical. I did what I could but had to wimp out of some sections, even then I had a few tumbles.

Safely down into Glen Coe, the last few miles to the King's House Hotel along the main road were all downhill and took just a few minutes.

I set up camp in this popular spot, too weary even to pop into the pub!

The forecast was for properly horrible weather to move in around lunchtime the next day and last a good while, so I needed to make an early start the next day. I booked a place to stay in Killin, ate a quick dinner in the tent and went to bed.

Miles today: 55. Total so far: 320.

Feet climbed today: 5940. Total so far: 26370.

Day 7 Fort Augustus to Kings House (part 1)

A day of real contrasts with the fastest and easiest section of the whole trip at the beginning, and the highest and hardest at the end. And all in decent (but cold) weather.

For the first part I simply followed the Caledonian Canal down the Great Glen. As you can see, it was a perfect still morning.

The route is a mixture of canal towpath, wooded tracks, minor roads and the disused (and never completed) Fort William to Inverness railway line. It only took a couple of hours to whizz the 30 odd miles to Fort William.

Ben Nevis towering above the town.

This is a place I know well, usually arriving bleary-eyed early in the morning after driving all night to come climbing. In the middle of the day with the sun shining it's actually quite nice.

First thing I drop into Nevis cycles for a new inner tube to replace the one that mysteriously keeps going soft even though it's not punctured.

Then it's into Nevis Sport for some lunch and also to get some warm socks and a sleeping bag liner as I have had enough of being cold at night.

I take the very steep little road south out of town for a few miles before joining the West Highland Way.

This section is on an military road, these were laid down by the English generals in the 1700s to enable troops and equipment to be moved around to slaughter the relevant locals. Before that, there were no roads in northern Scotland.

This one is rough and rocky but it takes a sensible line over the first of today's passed. Lairogie Morire meaning simply big pass. The tiny island at the back of this loch was supposedly the home of Macbeth, king of Scotland in 1040 something.

The pass is mostly rideable, but the descent into Kinlochleven is rather disappointing as it is too steep and rocky to enjoy with constantly rock gullies across the path.

My plan was to camp here, but there is plenty of day left, so a quick pint and I am off again.

View from pub

[Continues in next post...]

Day 6 Rest day in Fort Augustus

I've been resting, planning and sitting out some foul weather in Fort Augustus today.

It's a pretty village centred around the flight of locks from the Caledonian Canal into Loch Ness. The number of gift and ice cream shops suggest it is usually a tourist hotspot, but not in this wintery weather.

I have abandoned the plan to return to the Great North Trail route via Spean Bridge for now, as it is very mountainous and in any case the Corror hostel is still covid-closed.

Instead I have an easy run down the canal to Fort William, and if all is well this will be followed by a steeper section on the West Highland Way to Kinlochleven.

The West Highland Way then has a short but challenging section before descending to the river Coupall and taking easy tracks via the King's House Hotel (climbers' haunt) to the Glencoe ski centre. One last tough section and it's down to a valley route through Bridge of Orchy, Tyndrum and Crianlarich, each with its own railway station should I need it.

In all it's about 110 miles from here to Crianlarich, so around three days. Then I can either go east along Glen Dochart to pick up my original route, or carry on down to Loch Lomond.

The weather is set to stay cold and showery - is summer cancelled this year? At least I should have a following wind for a while.

Miles today: 0. Total so far: 265.

Feet climbed today: 0 Total so far: 20430.

Day 5 Cannich to Fort Augustus

After yesterday's setback of an injured Achilles, it's obvious that I need to take things a bit easier. I know I have the strength and fitness to complete this challenge, but I tend to forget that the bits and pieces holding me together are forty five years old now!

I am not able to stay here a second night as they are booked out, and the next leg of the official route to Fort Augustus is fairly short mountainous. I am pretty sure it is pushing the bike and constantly getting on and off that is causing my problem.

Fortunately there looks to be an easier if slightly longer route that follows the river Enrick west on the Affric-Kintail trail to Drumnadroicht then the Great Glen Cycle Route along the edge of Loch Ness all the way to Fort Augustus.

Starting and finishing near sea level and following a river and a loch, must be pretty flat, right? 

Wrong!

I start off on a brand new section of trail that climbs out of Glen Glass into Glen Enrick, steep but all smooth and rideable. By launching carefully and keeping my feet well forward on the pedals I find I can nimble along without any pain or aggravation.

It's another cold and imposing day, though not actually raining. I don't think the temperature has gone over 10C yet and I've been up here nearly a week.

At Corrimony I take a small detour to see a chambered cairn, a 4000 year old burial site thought to have been for an important local lady.

From here it is nine miles of pleasant, well-signposted undulating forest trails to Drumnadroicht. But there was one signpost missing, as I overlooked the turnoff down into town and did a few extra hilly miles before realising.

Steep and excellent single track trails lead into the pretty Drumnadroicht where it's time for lunch.

After lunch, the first section of the Great Glen Way is a long steep climb up a tiny road to arrive high up above the loch. It becomes a single track through the woods but never really settles down, with constant ups and downs and many gates. Obviously this is not going to be as easy as I had hoped.

The track joins a forest road after a few miles, but this continues its rather perverse wandering, at one point meandering up to 1200' above the loch before plunging back down in annoying switchbacks. The going was very slow, and there was another large and pointless climb just before it reached Invermoriston where you have to descend to road level to cross the Moriston river. 

There were occasional views of the beautiful Loch Ness though, and this odd little cave.

At Invermoriston I was tempted to revert to the main road, but it was fast and busy. The Great Glen trail does behave better in this section, although there is pleny of up and down. Eventually I come to a barrier where the trail has been uncerimoniously closed by the water board. A tiny path plunges off the side and I am in Fort Augustus at long last. My 'easy' day has somehow taken eight hours! 

It is not just my ankles that demand a rest day now, but pretty much all of me! I book into Morag's Hostel for two nights, happily also avoiding what is forecast to be a horrible day on Friday. We will see how it goes with the recovery...

Miles today: 38. Total so far: 265. (More than one quarter!)

Feet climbed today: 5700 Total so far: 20430.