Day 23 (the end?) Hayfield to Middleton Top

Gorgeous weather and a good night's sleep put me in a more positive mood today.

After an easy section came the big climb of the day up Roich Clough, a good but rough track leading high over the fells with good views of Kinder Scout.

Not far after the top came this picturesque valley and ford. 

Roich Clough really marks the last of the 'proper' hills on my route. The hard work for the day is not done yet, as I have to cross the impressive Chee Valley - a super steep descent and 1000' climb out the other side.

Easy ground leads to Parsley Hay, where I originally planned to leave the Great North Trail route and start making my own way further south.

Instead, I decide to follow the Great North Trail to its official end point at Middleton Top. This follows the High Peak Trail, another ex-railway line, and it's a superb fast track.

Pulling into the cafe at Middleton Top I can proudly claim to have completed the Great North Trail challenge; I have crossed the Grampians, the Highlands, the Trossachs, the North York Moors, the North Pennines, the Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District; and I have ridden almost 800 miles, the vast majority off road.

Admittedly I have not reached the Isle of Wight - that's a little under 300 miles of largely easy ground more. But my left ankle and also right knee have been telling me to stop for days, and it's time to listen to them. I would like to still be able to walk after this!

I hope none of my wonderful supporters feel short changed; as compensation I will donate a pound myself for every mile I didn't complete. Meanwhile the rest of the route is planned and waiting for me when the chance comes along.

Total raised for Lochaber Mountain Rescue, including gift aid, is currently £3311.06, well over my target.

THANK YOU!!! (and donations are still open: https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/jogiow)

Miles today: 32. Grand total: 798.

Day 22 Piethorne Reservoir to Hayfield

Wow what a struggle. There was just nothing left in the tank today, and the injured heel is playing up again.

I woke up crazy early and was rolling by 6am, the Pennine Bridleway providing its usual ups and steep rocky downs.

The route skirts around Oldham and the edges of Manchester, occasionally dipping into the valleys through pretty villages like Delph and Tintwhistle and up into the hills again.

The valley West of Staleybridge was bright with the pinks and purples of long escaped rhododendrons. 

These odd bits of rock were labelled on the map as "Robin Hood's picking rods." No idea what they are.

By time I reached Hayfield I had been going seven hours but covered only 25 miles - barely faster than walking pace. Clearly I am starting to really struggle.

Fortunately the pub was open for a Sunday lunch, and the campsite up the road had space.

A long sleep is needed and I will see what tomorrow brings. There may be some hard decisions to make.

Miles today: 27. Total so far: 766.

Day 21 Long Preston to Piethorne Reservoir

"The last mile is the hardest mile" sang Morrissey. Well Stephen, I hate to disagree but I have always found the third quarter of any run, race or endurance event to be the hardest.

Today was no exception, with the hot still weather, tired muscles, navigation errors and just relentless hills making it feel like bloody hard work with little progress across the map to show for it.

It started nicely, with the soft rolling hills of Brontë Country leading past fancy country estates. The official route takes a massive detour to avoid the suburb of Colne, but I decided on the direct route, not spotting the 1300' Weets Hill in the way, nor the equally vicious climb back up to the moors on the other side.

The Pennine Bridleway leads out over the uplands with its many reservoirs hinting at the cities nearby. But the surfaces are not great and the hills keep on coming. At least the familiar gritstone landscape of the Peak District is beginning to appear.

At Widdop reservoir I have had enough and drop down into the bustling Hebden Bridge.

From here, thankfully, there is a canal towpath route past Todmorden and Littleborough. It's a beautiful setting and a joy to get some easy miles done.

The Rochester canal rises through 36 well-spaced locks to a summit pound at 600' above sea level - the UK's highest - before slowly descending again.

Another mile stone passed:

I had thought a discrete camping spot might be found near Hollingworth Lake, but it is rammed with people drinking and sunbathing.

So I head back into the moors again, and find a reasonably well hidden spot with a nice view over looking Piethorne Reservoir.

Miles today: 45. Total so far: 739.

Day 20 Kirkby Stephen to Long Preston

Today had to be the most scenic day so far, traversing the beautiful Yorkshire Dales from north to south, in perfect weather too.

Continuing along the Eden valley past even more castles, my route climbed gradually up the flank of Abbotside Common on a lovely grassy track, at the top of which I found this:

Back down to the valley at Garsdale Head, then cunning chain of bridleways kept the southerly momentum over Widdale and into Ribblesdale, with its famous viaduct.

I made a short detour to visit Fawber Farm, of which I have fond memories from scouts and the university outdoor club, and found it converted into a smart private house.

Rather sadly, I also found the famous Pen-y-Ghent cafe in Horton has shut down. For decades this has been the official start and end point for the three peaks challenge.

A couple more substantial climbs brought me to the bustling and attractive town of Settle, but there is no campsite so I continued on past Long Preston (quick pint) to the very well appointed holiday park near Hellifield.

Miles today: 42. Total so far: 694.

Bathers at Stainforth Force

Day 19 Resting in Kirkby Stephen

I had a welcome visitor today, so I had a break from the saddle and we went in search of castles:

Pendragon Castle, allegedly originally belonging to Uther Pendragon, father of King Arthur.

Brough Castle, Norman origins but built on a Roman camp. Later restored by local celebrity and despot Lady Anne Clifford only to get burned down at a lively Christmas party in 1666.

Brougham Castle, also Norman-built to repel the Scots, on a Roman site and done up by la Clifford, but later fell into ruins. Still, the keep is largely intact and it has a formidable double guardhouse.

We also visited Brougham Hall, but she decided that was not castelly enough to qualify, and Appleby was shut, so only three today.

Miles today: 0. Total so far: 652.

Day 18 Alston to Kirkby Stephen

It was time for the big day over the ‘hump’ of Durston Fell. I made an early start and began to wind my way up the South Tyne valley, slowly climbing higher and higher on minor roads to the little village of Garrigill.

Here it was decision time - the official route heads up a track south west via Cross Fell over to Kirkland, but a more interesting variant is mentioned via Cow Green reservoir and High Cup Nick. The first part is designated a footpath though, which I suspect is the reason the guide book does not officially recommend it. Reading between the lines, it’s the better route so I decide to give it a go.

The climb continues up the remote B-road that eventually leads to Teesdale, accompanied only by the odd band of touring motorcyclists. At the peak of the road, just after passing an incongruous ski lift, it’s time to leave the road behind and head into the wilderness.

Fortunately the ‘footpath’ is really a vehicle track, and an excellent one at that. I shoot along through the empty but imposing moorland and reach the reservoir in no time, even with a stiff breeze.

From the dam, I pick up the Pennine Bridleway which has been recently been upgraded to a good hard track. It skirts around the edge of the military danger area climbing up and up onto Dufton Fell. A few miles short of my goal of High Cup Nick though the new track spears off to who knows where, and I am back on the old route of grass, bog and rocks.

It’s tough going for a few miles either side of the bridge over Maize Beck, but I did find this lovely spot for a lunch break.

At last, in a kind of giant saddle, High Cup Nick appears, and it is as dramatic as promised. The classic U-shaped valley plunges away steeply in all directions and gives great views towards the Dales. 

Amazingly, the exit path runs just along the top of the cliffs you can see on the right side. It’s flat and rocky for a good while, before making a steep and technical descent to Dufton village. Exhausting but exhilarating riding.

I whizz down to Appleby for a second lunch (very attractive little town), then make my way towards Kirkby Stephen. As I have lots of time I explore some of the local paths and bridleways along the Eden river, which turn out to be pretty but very narrow and very overgrown - I can barely make walking pace.

At Kirkby Stephen - another pretty little town - it’s time for a real bed for the night and a day off tomorrow!

Miles today: 39. Total so far: 652.

Day 17 Kielder to Alston

A nice easy day today, but it still seemed to take ages.

Woke up early, but not before the midges unfortunately. The first leg was the cycle path that ambles around Kielder Water, to a breakfast stop at Tower Knowle.

Next it was up into the forest on good forestry tracks, and not too much climbing. It's good to see so much tree planting going on, including native broadleaf species. These guys look like they can plant trees PDQ!

I went past the very respectable "Green" bothy, that has three rooms including two fires and sleeping platforms.

I eventually left the forests behind and took a long unsurfaced road towards Hadrian's Wall, which follows the obvious geology around here.

A quick ice cream stop in Haltwhistle (centre of Britain apparently) then the thankfully flat and well surfaced ex-railway towards Alston following the Tyne upstream.

Somewhere around Slaggyford I must have lost concentration because I left the railway and ended up on national cycle route 68 instead. Up it went, up and up the valley side for no reason at all before plunging back down. Who designs these terrible routes?

Finally make Alston, a very slopey little town, and set up in the little caravan site by the river, for a much needed wash.

Tomorrow is a big challenge as I need to cross the wilds of the North York Moors, over Alston Moor, Milburn Fore and Dufton Fell. These remote tracks reach 3000' in places!

Miles today: 45. Total so far: 613.

Day 16 Innerleithen to Kielder

I passed a several milestones today - at 568 miles I am past the half way point, it's officially summer and I also crossed the border into England.

From my camp on the bank of the Tweed yesterday, it was not long before I started the now customary 1000' morning climb, only this one turned out to be nearly 2000'.

The hills and forests to the south east of Innerleithen are a maze of purpose-built mountain bike trails, but it is neither fun nor polite to attempt these uphill. thankfully they have also built an ascent track, an easy trail which follows a constant gradient and joins the forest tracks higher up on the forest.

These excellent tracks wiggle and contour  around, eventually leading to what I thought was a valley route on the southern uplands way on the far side.

But not for the first or last time, I failed to read the map carefully enough, and it's actually a ridge route, cue more climbing!

it's worth it though, as a narrow mud track weaves through the gorgeous scenery, descending gradually into the Ettrick valley.

A wrong turn leads me to a cafe and watermill, so perhaps not that wrong. Back on track and it's time for another 1000' climb past some TV masts and down to the village of Ashkirk in the next valley, where the pub is tragically shut on Mondays.

Fortunately the golf club at Woll accepts sweaty, scruffy cyclists into their restaurant and makes me a fine lunch.

Another big up-and-down via a path rather chewed up by horses leads me to the town of Hawick (pronounced Hoik) where I can stock up on supplies.

The next section looks easy on paper, following part of the disused Carlisle to Edinburgh railway. The first problem is actually getting onto it, which I manage by scrambling down a steep bank near Stobbs Castle. Once established  on the  grassy  railway a track finally appears and slowly improves.

The going is strangly slow though, not helped by getting my first puncture. A headwind has also sprung up. Or maybe I'm just exhausted. It's neither, I finally realise the railway is following a slight but continuous incline. I drag up this almost imperceptible slope for about four miles, when the railway dives into a tunnel, and I must go 'over the top' climbing up to about 1500'.

On the other side there is a short section of track on which are stranded a variety of carriages and engines of different eras and states of disrepair - a railway heritage centre apparently. I shoot along the now excellent surface of the railway bed, enjoying the slight downhill, to reach the lost village of Riccarton Junction.

Once home to 120 people, there are now just four buildings, two of which are in ruins. The village, which has no road, existed only to serve the remote station. After closure of first one line then the other in 60s it was cleared leaving barely a trace.

Having reached the road at Liddersdale, the official route climbs a towering ridge to reach the border at the back of Kielder forest. I like the idea of crossing the border but not the climb, so instead I take minor roads that loop around the head of the valley and into Northumberland.

Back in England again, wild camping is not allowed so I make for the official campsite in  Kielder village, but it's shut so I go to the pub instead.

Refreshed, I start along the lake side past the no camping signs. I does not look promising, and it's starting to get dark. Finally I find a discrete but rather bumpy spot - and then the dreaded midges find me!

Miles today: 58. Total: 568.

Day 15 Edinburgh to Innerleithen

What a difference a few days makes - gone are the cold northerly winds and incessant rain, replaced with mild temperatures and plenty of sunshine.

I haven't covered a huge distance today, even less as the crow flies, but I have worked hard as it's been super hilly and also very pretty.

Early morning in the Pentlands

Also, I passed the 500 mile mark! All together now; I would ride 500 miles and I would ride 500 more...

From the suburbs of Edinburgh I found a cunning route south around Dreghorn Barracks and up into the Pentland Hills. Up was the word as I did a steep and continuous climb to the flank of Castlelaw Hill at about 1400' before descending to the Glencourse reservoir.

MOD shooting ranges above the reservoir.

Here I picked up a valley route along the picturesque reservoirs. I would not want to be a fish in one of these.

A climb over a pass at Borestane leads via some boggy bits to North Esk reservoir and down to Carlops. 

North Esk reservoir was built to supply water to the paper mills below.

After the very cute village of West Linton, I have another big climb over the wild and remote Cloich Hills via the old drovers road. This is the route once used to walk cattle and sheep all the way from Falkirk to Smithsfield market in London for sale.

A final effort sees Peebles appear way down below.

A quick refuel at Peebles, and it is an easy disused railway track along the Tweed via the rather toy-town village of Cardrona to Innerleithen.

On the edge of Innerleithen I find this lovely spot and decide that's enough. A paddle and wash in the river is very refreshing. 

If you are wondering, the tent will go up later as I am rather close to civilization tonight.

Miles today: 39. Total so far: 510