It was time for the big day over the ‘hump’ of Durston Fell. I made an early start and began to wind my way up the South Tyne valley, slowly climbing higher and higher on minor roads to the little village of Garrigill.
Here it was decision time - the official route heads up a track south west via Cross Fell over to Kirkland, but a more interesting variant is mentioned via Cow Green reservoir and High Cup Nick. The first part is designated a footpath though, which I suspect is the reason the guide book does not officially recommend it. Reading between the lines, it’s the better route so I decide to give it a go.
The climb continues up the remote B-road that eventually leads to Teesdale, accompanied only by the odd band of touring motorcyclists. At the peak of the road, just after passing an incongruous ski lift, it’s time to leave the road behind and head into the wilderness.
Fortunately the ‘footpath’ is really a vehicle track, and an excellent one at that. I shoot along through the empty but imposing moorland and reach the reservoir in no time, even with a stiff breeze.
From the dam, I pick up the Pennine Bridleway which has been recently been upgraded to a good hard track. It skirts around the edge of the military danger area climbing up and up onto Dufton Fell. A few miles short of my goal of High Cup Nick though the new track spears off to who knows where, and I am back on the old route of grass, bog and rocks.
It’s tough going for a few miles either side of the bridge over Maize Beck, but I did find this lovely spot for a lunch break.
At last, in a kind of giant saddle, High Cup Nick appears, and it is as dramatic as promised. The classic U-shaped valley plunges away steeply in all directions and gives great views towards the Dales.
Amazingly, the exit path runs just along the top of the cliffs you can see on the right side. It’s flat and rocky for a good while, before making a steep and technical descent to Dufton village. Exhausting but exhilarating riding.
I whizz down to Appleby for a second lunch (very attractive little town), then make my way towards Kirkby Stephen. As I have lots of time I explore some of the local paths and bridleways along the Eden river, which turn out to be pretty but very narrow and very overgrown - I can barely make walking pace.
At Kirkby Stephen - another pretty little town - it’s time for a real bed for the night and a day off tomorrow!
Miles today: 39. Total so far: 652.
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